By Tiracol Fort, also called Terekhol Fort, sits on a cliff at the northernmost tip of Goa, right where the Terekhol river meets the Arabian Sea. The funny part is that the village of Tiracol is on the other side of the river, so it is surrounded by Maharashtra on land, but it is still Goa. The fort itself is very small and today most of it is a heritage hotel, but the view from in front of it, with the river mouth, Keri Beach and the open sea, is one of the best in North Goa.
On the same trip you also get a hidden half-moon beach right behind the fort and a set of small sea caves on the cliffs, so this place is a lot more than just a fort photo. I went in for free, walked down to the beach and found the caves, so here is everything you need to know before you go.
Photo: Nichalp, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0.
What to do at Tiracol Fort?
1. Explore the fort and the chapel
Photo: Maanasi h, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Entry to the fort is free since it is a heritage site, and I just walked in. At the gate you have to give your details for safety reasons, and then you enter a really small but historically important fort. In the middle of the courtyard is the Church of St Anthony, a white chapel from the 17th century, which is still used by the people of Tiracol village. When I went, the chapel was closed, and I was told it opens only on Sundays for mass.
Don’t expect to spend hours inside, because there is not much area open to explore. Most of the fort is the hotel, so the rooms, the kitchen and the restaurant area are not open for people who just want to walk around and click photos. To be honest, the fort looked better from outside than inside, and the scenery around it is the real reason to come here. For the location, click here.
2. The view from in front of the fort
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.
This is the highlight. Stand in front of the fort and you get the Terekhol river mouth below you, the long stretch of Keri Beach (Querim) on the other side, and the Arabian Sea opening up in front. The fort sits on a hillock on the north bank of the river, which is exactly why it was built here, it gives a commanding view of the sea and the river entrance.
I would suggest you come here for sunset, that is when this view is at its best, with the sun going down over the sea and the beach across the river turning golden. Last time when I was at Keri, I said in my video that the land across the river was Maharashtra, and only later I found out that it was still Goa and this is the exact spot I was looking at. For the location, click here.
3. Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel
Photo: Deepak Patil, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
Most of the fort has been turned into the Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel. It has only seven rooms and suites, and they are named after the seven days of the week, which is a cute touch. If you want to stay here, you have to book online on their official website, and the stay is on the costlier side, so I did not stay here myself.
The hotel also has a restaurant with a terrace that looks over the sea. The view from up there is amazing, but it felt very expensive to me, almost like a five-star hotel, and the food timing didn’t match when I was there, so I ate outside. If you are not staying or eating there, remember that you can’t just walk into the restaurant for photos. For the location, click here.
4. Tiracol fort beach
Photo: Alexkom000, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.
Most people see the fort and leave, but there is a small beach hidden right behind it. To reach it, take the path from the right side of the fort entrance, walk around to the backside of the fort and climb down the rocks. The beach is half-moon shaped, tucked between the cliffs, and the centre of the beach is safe to get into the water, so stay in the middle and away from the rocks on the sides.
In the morning the beach gets shade from the cliff above, so this is the best time if you want to sit and relax. As the day goes on, the shade goes away and the sun stays on the beach until sunset, so carry a cap and sunscreen if you are going in the afternoon. Wear proper footwear for the climb down, because the rocks can be slippery. For the location, click here.
5. The small caves
The caves are on the cliffs a little away from the fort and the walk there is safe. From the car parking of the fort, just follow the road and then the track along the cliff, there are bike and car tracks most of the way, and it is roughly a 1 km walk. You can also ride your bike quite far down the track if you are a confident rider. When you reach the fork, the path on the right takes you straight to the cave, I took the left one first and had to come back up.
The caves are small and can hold around 20 people. Inside, it feels low on camera, but you can actually stand straight, and only near the end do you have to bend a little to get to the other side, where you get a really nice view of the sea. The rocks here are old volcanic rock, and from inside you can see Maharashtra on one side and Goa on the other. The Google Maps pin for the caves is not exact, so use this one: click here.
The return path below the cliff can get blocked at high tide, so check the tide timings and come at the start of low tide and leave before it ends. There is no shade on the walk, so carry at least 1 litre of water per person.
Food options near Tiracol Fort
There is a restaurant in the fort, but there are also some good places around it. These are the ones I would suggest:
- Tiracol Fort restaurant: inside the heritage hotel, with the best view of the lot, but on the expensive side. click here
- Hill Rock Resto Bar: close to the fort, popular for seafood and the view. click here
- The small shack at the ferry junction: good for a quick bite and chai while you wait for the ferry. click here
- Hotel Sea Princess: on the hill on the Tiracol side, with views of the sea and the river. click here
- Catch-N-Cook (Francis’ Fishnet): a small place for fresh seafood near the fort. click here
Ask for the menu and the price before you order, especially for fresh fish.
History of Tiracol Fort
The fort is believed to have been first built in the 17th century by Khem Sawant Bhonsle, the Raja of Sawantwadi, on a hillock on the north bank of the river. It started small, with 12 guns, a barrack and a chapel. In November 1746, the Portuguese under Viceroy Pedro Miguel de Almeida defeated the Sawantwadi forces in a battle on the river, and the fort was surrendered to them on 23 November 1746. The Portuguese rebuilt it in 1764 and it stayed with them until December 1961, when Goa became part of India.
The fort also has a place in the freedom struggle. On 15 August 1954, satyagrahis protesting Portuguese rule entered Goa from three directions, one of them through Tiracol, and they hoisted the Indian flag at the fort. That is why you will find a memorial to the freedom fighters here.
Things to note at Tiracol Fort
- Entry to the fort is free, but you have to give your details at the gate.
- Most of the fort is a private hotel, so the rooms, kitchen and restaurant are not open for sightseeing.
- The chapel opens only on Sundays for mass, so don’t expect to go inside on other days.
- For the caves and the path below the cliffs, check the tide timings and go during low tide.
- Swim only at the centre of the fort beach and avoid the rocky sides.
- Carry water, a cap and sunscreen, there is a lot of walking in the sun.
- Don’t litter on the beach or in the caves, carry your waste back with you.
How to reach Tiracol Fort
By Ferry
Photo: Alexey Komarov, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
The ferry from the Querim side is the best way to reach the fort. Ride up to the jetty at the northern end of Keri Beach, take the ferry across the Terekhol river with your bike or car, and from the other side the fort is a short drive up the hill. Note that the ferry depends on the tide and doesn’t run at certain times, so check locally before you plan your day around it.
By Road
If the ferry is not running, you can go around by road over the Kiranpani bridge, but this takes 40 to 45 minutes more. This route goes into Maharashtra and then comes back into Goa, so tourist taxis have to pay a tax at the border, keep that in mind if you are in a cab. Tiracol is about 42 km from Panaji.
By Air and Train
The closest airport is Manohar International Airport at Mopa in Pernem taluka, and Dabolim in South Goa is the other option but much further away. The nearest railway stations are Pernem and Thivim on the Konkan Railway. From the airport or the station, take a taxi or rent a bike, a bike is the best way to explore this whole side.
Best time to visit Tiracol Fort
October to March is the best time to visit, when the weather is pleasant and the sea is calm for the beach and the caves. Plan to be at the front of the fort for sunset, that is the best view. If you want to sit on the fort beach, go in the morning when the cliff gives you shade. Avoid the monsoon if you want to see the caves and the beach, the sea gets rough and the rocks become dangerous.
Places to stay near Tiracol Fort
If you want to stay in the fort, the heritage hotel is the only option and has to be booked online on their website. Otherwise, there are homestays and guesthouses around Keri on the other side of the river, and a lot more options in every budget in Arambol and Mandrem to the south, which make Tiracol an easy half-day trip.
FAQ
- Is there an entry fee for Tiracol Fort?
No, entry to Tiracol Fort is free since it is a heritage site. You just have to give your details at the gate.
- Can we stay inside Tiracol Fort?
Yes, the fort is a heritage hotel with seven rooms and suites. You have to book online on their website, and it is on the costlier side.
- What is the best way to reach Tiracol Fort?
The ferry from the Querim side near Keri Beach is the best way. Going by road over the bridge takes 40 to 45 minutes more.
- Is the Tiracol fort beach safe for swimming?
Yes, the centre of the half-moon beach is safe to get into the water. Stay away from the rocky sides.
- Are the caves near Tiracol Fort safe?
Yes, the walk to the caves is safe. Go during low tide, since the path below the cliff can get blocked at high tide.
- How much time does it take to explore Tiracol Fort?
Half a day is enough for the fort, the view, the beach and the caves. Stay till sunset if you can.
- Can we eat at Tiracol Fort?
Yes, there is a restaurant in the fort, but it is expensive. Hill Rock Resto Bar, Hotel Sea Princess, Catch-N-Cook and the shack at the ferry junction are other good options.
Final Thoughts
Tiracol Fort is small, but the view, the hidden beach and the caves make it worth the ferry ride, and if you are already at Keri Beach it is a must. Come by ferry, check the tide, and stay for the sunset in front of the fort. If you are planning more of this side, check my guide to the best beaches in North Goa. Tell me in the comments if you found the caves and the beach behind the fort.
I plan the route. I don’t book the ferry, the stay, or the tickets. A custom plan is Rs. 200 per travel day. Fill the trip form, pay online, and I’ll send you the plan.
